Canadian Home Workshop: Kitchens

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Although the legs don't bear weight, I love how they look.

You can leave them off without compromising strength, although the outcome won't be as beautiful. The cabinet is divided into four quadrants and sits on a separate base with hidden casters. Begin by cutting all cabinet parts to size. Use a dado blade along the middle of one side of the centre divider and at the one-third point on the other side.


Assemble the cabinet's end gabels with 20 biscuit joints and glue the door and drawer dividers into the dado slots. Anchor the base from the underside with 8 screws as well. Attach the top cleats to the middle panels and sides of the cabinet using 20 biscuits. The cabinet base is made up of an inner and outer frame. You could eliminate them for simplicity, but it gives the cabinet a greater visual presence. The outer frame is made of four pieces of wood, cut to size with mitred corners. Use a 20 biscuit to secure each corner joint. Screw the frames together, flip the cabinet upside down, then attach the base to the underside of the cabinet with wood strips screwed to the base and cabinet bottom.

Next, screw the casters to the base. This requires you to mill corner blocks to position the casters just right. Attach the blocks to the underside of the cabinet base with wood screws and glue, then screw the casters to the blocks. I discovered a dowelling jig from Dowel Max that I really like earlier this year, so I try to incorporate dowel joints whenever I can. And for this project, dowels are used to join the top rails to the stiles. The assembled face frame assembly is also dowelled to the cabinet. I used a gauge pin nailer and glue to join the door divider trim.

Lower the stile onto the bit 3" from the leading end, then lift it off 3" from the trailing end to leave wood for corner joinery. The rails are routed their full length. Join the stiles and rails with two dowels at each joint, but with no glue just yet. Measure for panels to fit within the grooves, cut them to size, then reassemble the doors permanently with glue and clamps. To match the hinges on my kitchen cupboards, I used European-style cup hinges on the island doors. Before installing, fasten a block of wood to the inside of the cabinet as a base for each hinge.

CAOT will not be responsible for other costs or expenses incurred by registrants as a result of any such changes. Additional questions? If you would like to inquire on accessibility options available to you, please contact education caot. If you would like to attend this workshop in another location, please complete this brief survey to let us know. Please note that the registration fee may vary from one location to another as there are different costs involved. We invite you to consult the Workshop FAQ for an immediate response to the most frequent questions we receive regarding Workshops.

Please do not hesitate to contact us at education caot. Toggle navigation. Show Map. Brief description: This two-day interactive workshop will equip you with the knowledge and skills to assess and provide consultation for bathroom modifications and basic kitchen modifications for accessible, adaptable and universal design features to suit the needs of people of a wide range of ages and who have diverse needs. Understand the broad principles for designing kitchens for domestic homes. Be aware of and be able to take key measurements of bathrooms and kitchens.

Be able to create a floor plan with measurements for bathrooms and kitchens. Be able to provide input on solutions including product and design options to suit bathrooms for older people and people with disabilities. Be able to provide input on solutions including product and design options to suit kitchens for older people and people with disabilities. Be aware of a range of resources to assist with practice. Target audience: Occupational therapists, occupational therapist assistants, and design and construction professionals who wish to improve their knowledge and skills to assess and provide consultation for bathroom modifications and basic kitchen modifications for accessible, adaptable and universal design features.

Ice and Water Shield.

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Canadian Home Workshop

Start from the bottom and work your way to the top to create an overlapping waterproof barrier. It goes up most of the side of the skylight and under the layer of shingles. When you install the flashing, also working from the bottom on up, be sure you nail it into the skylight frame only, and not into the roofing boards. Start with the bottom piece and then work your way up the side with L-shaped step flashing — lay down the flashing, overlap with a shingle and attach another flashing piece.

Install Flashing Caps. Use roofing tar the kind you buy in a caulking tube is easiest to work with and roofing nails to reattach the shingles. A Finished Exterior. Let it rain if it must. Insulate the Tunnel. Proper insulation of the tunnel is key to a successful job. Wearing goggles and gloves, level out any insulation you moved in the ceiling.

Use R insulation it meets code for walls and fits nicely between the studs and seal it with a vapour barrier. For more information on drywalling, see the February issue. Once the tape is dry and sanded, a couple of coats of paint, preferably a light colour to reflect the sunlight, will finish the job off. When the Hourtovenkos decided to install a skylight in their kitchen, they wanted the most impact for the fewest dollars. They decided against expensive operating skylights those that can open up , because an existing window provides most of the ventilation.

But for extra ventilation up high, they chose a skylight with a small operable rainproof vent. More significantly, they opted for two side-by-side skylights for maximum light. Since they tilt open they can be used as emergency exits. There are other costs to consider.

You will also need an additional connector kit for any side-by-side skylight installations. The ice and water shield is a necessity for skylights that will have to endure Canadian weather. As with cars, you can buy a base skylight model, or you can add bells and whistles and drive up the price.

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Another factor that will affect your final cost is how the skylight is made. Do you go with an acrylic dome-shaped skylight, or do you opt for a sealed unit with low-E glass and argon gas?

Low-E is a low emissivity coating that traps heat in the winter and blocks out heat in the summer. Argon is an inert gas that acts as an insulating barrier between the window panes. Low-E and argon gas add to the price, but they are pretty much becoming standard with all windows these days. The existing light photo top left was removed before the ceiling was cut out for the skylight shaft. The homeowners installed new pot lights in the shaft before the dry wall went up.

Chances are you're going to be taking down a light when you install a skylight.

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  • No problem, except when the sun sets at night. To prevent stumbling around in the dark, you'll probably need to install new lights. There are a couple of options. You can install track lights or pot lights around the skylight opening. Or you can do what the Hourtovenkos did and install lights right in the tunnel.

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    Before the drywall goes up it's easy to install pot lights in the tunnel studs. If you've removed a light, you might be able to use the wiring from it. Otherwise, you'll have to install new wiring. When in doubt, hire an expert. Email Us. Or read about our skylight repair services. Request a Quote Email Us at info skylightsunlimited.